Sunday, May 12, 2013

Two-potato vindaloo (Plenty)

  • 8 cardamom pods
  • 1 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
  • 1/2 tsp cloves
  • 1/4 tsp ground tumeric
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 12 shallots (about 10 oz in total), chopped
  • 1/2 tsp brown mustard seeds
  • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds [Although I didn't take the time to look when I was recently in NYC, I've only been able to find ground fenugreek in Boston]
  • 25 curry leaves
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh ginger [I made this on Lockdown Day here in Boston after the marathon.  My ginger was all dried up.  I used maybe a tablespoon of the powdered stuff.]
  • 1 fresh red chile, finely chopped
  • 3 ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 1/4 cup cider vinegar
  • 1 3/4 cups water
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • salt
  • 2 1/2 cups peeled waxy potatoes, cut into 1-inch dice
  • 2 small red bell peppers, cut into 1-inch dice
  • 2 1/2 cups peeled sweet potatoes, cut into 1-inch dice
  • mint or cilantro leaves to serve [Nope]


Dry roasting the spices. Yes, I also ground these in a mortar and pestle.

Mise en place.

Saute shallots and mustard seeds until the shallots brown.  The fenugreek seeds would go in here if I had any.

Add spice mix, curry leaves, ginger, and chile and cook for a further 3 minutes.

Add tomatoes, vinegar, water, sugar, and some salt and simmer for 20 minutes. Add potatoes and bell peppers and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add sweet potatoes and simmer for 40 minutes or until potatoes are tender.  Uncover the pot and leave to reduce for 10 minutes.

Another great dish from Yotam Ottolenghi's Plenty.  I don't think I've made a vindaloo before with such perfectly balanced flavors.
And that's a wrap on this three entry series.

Swiss chard, chickpea, and tamarind stew (Plenty)

  • 4 tbsp seedless tamarind pulp [Too lazy to seek this out in some crazy market.  Super 88 if they have any is too much of a trek.]
  • 1 lb Swiss chard (stalks and leaves), cut into 3/8-inch slices
  • 1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds
  • 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 tsp caraway seeds
  • 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 tsp tomato paste
  • one 14-oz can chopped plum tomatoes, with their juices
  • 1 1/2 cup water
  • 1 1/2 tbsp sugar
  • 2 1/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or a 14-oz can, drained)
  • salt and black pepper
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 cup Greek yogurt (optional) [Nope]
  • generous handful cilatro leaves
  • 1 3/4 cups short-grain rice
  • 1 1/2 tbsp butter
  • 3 cups water
Toasting the coriander seeds.  I'm sure I could've easily just whizzed them in the coffee grinder, but I decided to do what Ottolenghi said and broke out the mortar and pestle.

Mise en place.

Blanching the chard in salted water.

There were some steps in here, but it seems like I figured to only photograph very few of them.  Basically this is a bowl with practically everything in it except for the cilantro and lemon and...

Rice pilaf.  Which strikes me as far more foolproof a way of cooking rice on a stovetop than normal rice.  Not like I do that since I have a rice cooker.

Very good dish.  I only added the juice of half of a lemon since I thought the dish was quite sour enough as is.  I guess I didn't have cilantro this time around.
This is also a weird culinary mash-up since I'm pretty sure they don't use tamarind in the middle east.

Brussels sprouts and tofu (Plenty)

  • 2 tbsp sweet chile sauce
  • 1 1/2 tbsp soy sauce
  • 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil
  • 1 tsp rice vinegar
  • 1 tbsp maple syrup
  • 5 oz firm tofu
  • 1 lb Brussels sprouts
  • about 3/4 cup sunflower oil
  • salt
  • 1 cup sliced green onions
  • 1/2 small fresh red chile, deseeded and finely chopped
  • 1 1/2 cups shiitake mushrooms, halved or quartered
  • 1 cup cilantro leaves
  • 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
I once bought a stalk of these from Trader Joe's with no specific recipe in mine. It basically occupied space in my fridge until I had to throw it out.
This time I was shopping for brussels sprouts and even though it probably still living in the fridge for about a week I still was able to actually use it.

I left the mushrooms out at room temperature in a sealed bag for a couple days.  Unsurprisingly much of it went bad on me.  I inevitably wish there had been more shiitakes in the dish.

Mise en place.

Browning the sprouts.

Saute the onions, chile, and mushrooms for 1 to 2 minutes.

Browning the marinated tofu.

Toasting sesame seeds.

Honestly I don't think this dish that Ottolenghi created references any specific Asian cuisine.  There's there's the Chinese-ish glaze that the marinated is reduced down to, but the cilantro is hella Southeast Asia but such a natural pairing with with the flavors in the dish.  And where in Asia exactly do they use maple syrup in their stir-fries.

If I ever make it out to London, I clearly have to eat somewhere Ottolenghi.  And St. Johns as well I guess.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Chocolate Malt Layer Cake (MMB)

If you strongly enjoy this post, I encourage you to read the entries on the two other MMB cakes I have attempted: Apple Cake and Arnold Palmer Cake.  I've made the latter of the two cakes 3 times so far.
I made this cake for my 30th birthday this year and my friends and family all judged this handsdown as their favorite cake so far.  With no further ado, I present the MMB Chocolate Malt Layer Cake:

  • 1 recipe Chocolate Cake
  • 1 recipe Ovaltine Soak
  • 1 recipe Malt Fudge Sauce, warm
  • 1/2 recipe Malted Milk Crumb
  • 1 recipe Charred Marshmallows
Full Bday glory.  No, it is not the neatest Chocolate Malt Layer Cake on the face of the planet.

Some crazy part of my mind thought I needed Rich Chocolate Ovaltine instead of just Chocolate Malt.  That crazy part of my mind was wrong.


Malted Milk Crumb
  • 1 recipe Milk Crumb
  • 60 g Ovaltine, malt flavor (3/4 cup)
  • 90 g white chocolate, melted (3 ounces)
If you really want to see me Milk Crumb, click here.  Otherwise, here's a sort-of mise en place.

Malted Milk Crumb mise en place.


Toss the milk crumb with Ovaltine.  The toss it with the white chocolate until it's enrobed and not sticky anymore.

Malt Fudge Sauce
  • 60 g 72% chocolate, chopped (2 ounces)
  • 80 g Ovaltine, malt flavor (1 cup)
  • 5 g molasses (1 teaspoon)
  • 1 g kosher salt (1/4 teaspoon)
  • 200 g glucose (1/2 cup) [Or you can sub 35 g of corn syrup like I usually do]
  • 40 g sugar (1/4 cup)
  • 110 g heavy cream (1/2 cup)
Malt Fudge Sauce mise en place.

You're supposed to let it sit for a full minute after you've brought the liquid to a boil and pour them in the bowl of chocolate.  I got a little excited and stirred too early for a seconds.  Afterwards, whisk until glossy.

Chocolate Cake
  • 115 g butter, at room temperature (8 tablespoons [1 stick])
  • 300 g sugar (1 1/2 cups)
  • 3 eggs
  • 110 g buttermilk (1/2 cup)
  • 40 g grapeseed oil (1/4 cup)
  • 4 g vanilla extract (1 teaspoon)
  • 1/4 Fudge Sauce (38 g [3 tablespoons]) [Malt Fudge Sauce is a variation of Fudge Sauce]
  • 155 g cake flour (1 1/4 cups)
  • 70 g cocoa powder, preferably Valrhona (1/2 cup)
  • 6 g baking powder (1 1/2 teaspoons)
  • 6 g kosher salt (1 1/2 teaspoons)
  • Pam or other nonstick cooking spray (optional)
Chocolate cake mise en place.


Cream sugar and butter for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the eggs and cream for another 2 to 3 minutes.  I can't remember if I took this before or after you stream in the buttermilk, oil, and vanilla and paddle until twice the volume.  BTW, I finally made the rational decision to use real buttermilk this time around.

Add the fudge sauce and mix until fully incorporated.

On very low speed, add the dry ingredients and mix until barely incorporated.  Spread out into a quarter sheet pan.

Bake the cake for 30-35 minutes at 350.

Charred Marshmallows
  • 150 g mini marshmallows (2 3/4 cups)
Marshmallows in my trusty quarter sheet pan and my brand-spanking new kitchen torch.

Really "char them to hell and back" and then pop them in the freezer for 10 minutes for easier handling.

ASSEMBLY TIME!!!
Mise en place minus the cake.

Punching out the cake layers.

Tap the cake scraps into the bottom layer.  Oh I forgot to line the cake ring with acetate before starting yet again?  Well, doy!
Brush liberally with Ovaltine soak.

Spread 1/5 of the malt fudge sauce on.

Half the malted milk crumb.


1/3 of the marshmallows.


Another 1/5 of the sauce.

Repeat once more and then top with the perfect cake layer.  Spread the remainder of the fudge sauce on and then the rest of the marshmallows.  As you can see I forgot the final layer of marshmallows until several hours after I had thrown this baby in the freezer.

The verdict: Perhaps the gooiest, creamiest, chocolatey cake around.  Perhaps the chocolate cake to rule all chocolate cakes.  Plus, I've always loved Whopper candies.

Normandy Chicken Fricassee (EP)

  • 1 chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds), cut into 8 pieces (2 legs, 2 thighs, and 2 breasts, halved), skin removed
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 cup diced (1/2-inch) carrots
  • 2 medium onions, cut into 1-inch dice (1 1/2 cups)
  • 1/2 cup diced (1/2 inch) celery
  • 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped (1 teaspoon)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 cup dry white wine (such as Chardonnay) [I guess I used a Chenin Blanc Viognier]
  • 1/2 cut water
  • 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup frozen baby peas
  • 2 tablespoons Calvados or applejack [I used the applejack I bought for the Duck and Apples dish]
Mise en place.

Browning the chicken pieces.

Add the carrots, onions, celery, garlic, parsley (what parsley?  hahah), thyme, and bay leaf.  Cover and cook for five minutes.  Add wind and water, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

I made my first beurre manie which is a paste one makes of equal parts flour and butter.  The combination of fat and butter is not a novel one to me since I've cooked a roux a handful of times, but it's sort of cool to do something for the first time.

Remove and reserve the chicken.  Add beurre manie, whisking steadily.  Add cream and peas and bring to a boil and then a 1 minute simmer.  Off heat, stir in the Calvados and taste for seasoning.

This was quite good.  As a classic French dish, it doesn't have much of a chance to really wow me, but this wasn't a bad dish at all.  It'd be nice to eat off a dinner plate, but we didn't have the luxury at that time.
The vegetable were a little less than tender, but overall, I executed this well.  It came together effortlessly after the prep.

Jerked Pork (WBR)

  • 10 scallions
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 or 2 habenero (Scotch bonnet) chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 1/2 cup fresh lime juice, more or less
  • 1 boneless pork shoulder (picnic or Boston butt), about 6 pounds
Combine the first six ingredients and enough lime juice to make a paste.  Poke a bunch of holes into the shoulder and rub and poke that stuff in.  Couldn't find habaneros sadly when I was shopping which is kind of heretical, but I did the best I could with some jalapenos.  Marinate preferable overnight.


I realized afterward that I probably shouldn't have been so particular about trimming off the fat (considerable) from the shoulder.  Well, duh; part of this was still edible after 4 hours at 300, "basted" occasionally with merely lime juice.


The result served over coconut rice (Basically rice cooked with coconut milk.  It involves slightly different technique than the normal way and it's kind of foolproof I think).
Of course most of the meat was barely edible, but we made do with some Bulls' Eye Sauce for moisture.  I'm curious enough to do an ATK version of this.  Maybe even the charcoal grilled with that smokes wood and allspice berries to mimic the traditional way of smoking it over pimento wood (aka wood from the allspice tree).